If you’ve ever seen your load shift in the rear-view mirror, you’ll know that gut-sinking moment. The one where you’re hoping it holds until the next stop. You’ve wrestled with ropes, dodgy straps, and last-minute tie-downs, but deep down, you know a decent set of ratchet straps would’ve saved you the stress.
Ratchet straps are the gear you forget about until you need them. But when that time comes, you want to know you’re using them right. The secret is in the setup - the tension of the threading, and knowing when tight is tight enough.
How do you use ratchet tie-down straps?
A ratchet strap’s job is to hold your load steady using tension and locking pressure. It’s made up of three parts:
- The webbing strap, which runs over or around your load.
- The ratchet handle (or crank), which tightens and locks the strap.
- The end fittings (hooks or carabiners), which clip to secure anchor points on your tray, trailer or roof rack.
Here’s how to use ratchet straps properly
1. Secure one end
- Attach the hooks or carabiner at the fixed end of the ratchet strap to a secure point on your vehicle or rack.
- If there isn’t a solid anchor point, use a Tiegear Soft Anchor to wrap around roof rack bars, tray frames or handlebars for an instant tie-down point.
2. Feed the strap over the load.
- Run the webbing across or around whatever you’re tying down.
- Keep the strap flat so it grips evenly and doesn’t twist.
3. Thread the strap through the ratchet.
- Feed the free end of the webbing through the ratchet crank slot from underneath.
- Pull it through until it’s snug, not tight yet, just taking up the slack.
- If you’re using a ratchet from the Tiegear Nero range, latch the second carabiner to the other side.
4. Crank to tighten.
- Crank the ratchet handle up and down to create tension.
- You’ll feel it start to firm up. Once there’s no movement in the load, stop.
5. Lock it off.
- Snap the handle down into the closed position. That locks the ratchet teeth and holds the tension.
6. Tidy the excess.
- Nobody likes loose webbing flapping in the wind. Loop any loose strap into the built-in stash pocket on the Tiegear Nero, or Flexstraps, or tuck it securely if you’re using another brand.
A good ratchet strap setup should feel rock-solid, without any wobble or slack. If it’s moving, you haven’t cranked it enough.
How to release ratchet straps
Getting it tight is one thing; getting it off safely is another. To release a ratchet strap, you need to take the pressure off safely.
Here’s how to undo ratchet straps without cursing or pinching your fingers:
- Pull and hold the release lever. It’s the small handle on the top of the ratchet.
- Open the ratchet fully. Swing it right back until it’s flat. This disengages the teeth and releases the tension.
- Pull the webbing free. Once the ratchet’s open, give the strap a tug and it’ll slide straight out.
If the strap’s still tight or feels jammed, it’s probably under load. Give it a shake or ease the weight from the load first, then try again.
For the Tiegear Flexstrap, the cam buckle and spring system do most of the work for you. Just pull to release, and the spring tension backs off cleanly.
Can I use ratchet straps on a roof rack?
Absolutely. In fact, you should. Rope might cut it for the old esky and sleeping bags, but for anything heavy, a ratchet strap is your best mate.
How to use ratchet straps on a roof rack:
- Spread the weight. Position your load evenly; don’t overload one side more than the other.
- Use proper anchor points. The Tiegear Soft Anchors help manage awkward angles or any setup that doesn’t have a tie-down point.
- Keep the strap flat. Twisted webbing can weaken your hold, wear down the webbing, and, most annoyingly, it whistles in the wind.
- Watch your height. Double check clearance - there’s nothing worse than hearing your surfboard clap the garage door.
- Tuck in loose ends. If you have one, use the stash pocket to stop straps from flapping around.
Tiegear ratchets are heavy-duty, with a rugged ratchet system that bites hard and stays put. If you’re using traditional ratchets or doing long hauls, it’s good practice to check your straps at every stop. Heat, vibration and bumps along the road can loosen tension over time.
What type of ratchet straps should I use for heavy loads?
That depends on what you’re tying down. The golden rule is the heavier the load, the wider the strap and the stronger the rating.
- Light loads (under 135kg): For surfboards, kayaks and ladders, opt for a Tiegear Helix for a fast and easy, hybrid tie-down bungee system.
- Medium loads (up to 500kg): The Tiegear Nero gives you 3 metres of webbing and a heavy-duty ratchet for locking down heavier loads.
- Heavy loads (500kg+): You’ll want a Flexstrap/Nero Bundle, complete with Tiegear ratchet straps and heavy-duty flexstraps to keep gear secure with reduced strain.
All Tiegear straps are rated with a Lashing Capacity (LC) or Max Load rating, so you know exactly what they can handle. Always go higher than you think you’ll need. It’s better to overestimate than push your load to its limit.
Common ratchet strap mistakes to avoid
Even the most switched-on operators can get caught out. Save hours of grief on the road by avoiding:
- Twisted straps: Always lay the webbing flat to spread the load evenly.
- Over-tightening: You’ll strain hooks and the webbing, or what you’re tying down.
- Wrong anchor point: If it bends, breaks, or shifts, it’s not secure enough.
- Ignoring wear and tear: Frayed webbing or rusted ratchets should be replaced immediately.
Final checks before you hit the road
Before you start the engine, walk around your setup and give every strap a firm tug. If anything moves, crank it once more. Check the hooks, stash the webbing, and make sure the ratchet handles are locked down. Then you’re good to go.
Tiegear ratchet straps are made for everyday, real-world use. They’re supremely durable with smart design and features tried and tested in the most extreme Australian conditions.
Now that you know how to use ratchet straps safely, browse our full collection to find the perfect strap for your next haul.
